Payal Pratap in collaboration with Japanese fibre brand Bemberg™ at the Sustainable Fashion Day at FDCI X Lakmé Fashion Week Designer

by Team Conscious Carma

Bemberg™ collaborated with Designer Payal Pratap, for her collection ‘JAVA’ made from Bemberg™ yarn at FDCI x Lakmé Fashion Week – Sustainable Fashion Day, on 24th March at Major Dhyan Chand National Stadium, New Delhi.

Designer Payal Pratap, celebrated for her timeless pieces and eco-sensitive approach to design, brought together age-old crafts and contemporary sustainable materials. Her collection oozed simplicity, elegance and timelessness with  Bemberg™, elevating the sophistication bar. Bemberg™, a cupro fibre manufactured by Japan’s Asahi Kasei Corporation is a pure regenerated cellulosic fibre crafted using nature and sophisticated technology for the last 90 years.

Commenting on the brand and collaboration, Mr. Mikio Ota, General Manager, Bemberg sales Department, Asahi Kasei Corporation, Japan, said, “It was such an amazing collaboration. I would really like to extend our greatest gratitude to Payal, for bringing out the beauty of fabrics made from Bemberg™ with such beautiful designs, prints, and embroidery. We really look forward to continuing to work together towards creating sustainable solutions in Fashion”.

Commenting on the use of Bemberg in her collection designer Payal Pratap said, “Bemberg in various avatars ranging from satins, muslins, mulmul, and silk blends have been used to create the collection with fluid drapes as well as structure. The fabric takes printing and colour beautifully and has a slight sheen and glazed feel which resonates with chintz. The collection has bold prints, large floral patterns and there is no holding back on the rush of colour or the exuberance that is hard to disguise.  This is clearly a return to maximalism, reminiscent of the good old days.  A harbinger of better times to come.”

Having spent her formative years in Indonesia, Payal’s collection, titled ‘JAVA’ was a nostalgic journey through the good old days of maximalism. With a focus on prints the designer worked on hand painted artworks which have then been digitized.  The designs captured detailed elements and a three-dimensional depth and texture from the age-old crafts of Batik and powerful imagery and minute detailing from the ancient craft of Chintz printing. Using extensive flower, leaf, tree, vines and bird motifs, the collection highlighted sustainability, which lies at the heart of the designer’s ethos.  

The colour story remained true to indigo tones as well as deep shades of burgundy and ivory but then moved to brown, rust, brick and gold to form myriad patterns of dots and strokes. The tailored, structured jackets with print placements evoked a blend of the Far East with India. The appliquéd jackets, wrap jumpsuits, lungi skirts, wide-leg pants, knotted skirt and the wraparound bodice silhouettes were aimed at a timeless collection ideal for a holiday wardrobe. Subdued glitter came in the form of sequins that highlighted the 3D textures of the flowers and motifs. 

Two versions of pinafores – maroon and navy, both with floral prints were worn over long-sleeved shirts, while the blue floral appliqués on a micro-checked dress livened up the ensemble. A simple cropped summer blouse had an appliquéd corsage and was matched with an inverted pleated skirt that has to be just ideal summer wear.  Making a stunning entry was the ivory Nehru jacket with giant, shimmering floral bouquets were strategic placements. Flared, summer strappy blouses, beach dresses, ankle-length pants, printed co-ords, pantsuits and a variety of shorts and jackets in varying lengths kept the theme of the collection in stylish control. 

The burst of vivid colours, bold exotic prints that ranged from flora to fauna turned the “Java” collection by Payal Pratap in association with Bemberg™ into an exuberant offering of maximum fashion that was aimed at the return to the good old days. 

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